Embu das Artes

My husband secretly cooked me meatloaf on Monday.  (It is feasible that it was less covert and more my avoidance of the kitchen.)  The dish was stuffed with sun dried tomatoes, had melted mozzarella on top, and was delish.  So here I am, two days later, eating a cold meatloaf sandwich (of which I have gone without for a minimum of seven months). 

Eating food that can justifiably be smothered in ketchup is distracting me from the fact that my husband has been in Rio for three weeks straight.

Smart move, husband.  Well played.

Meanwhile, he has also left me with a list of priorities:
1. Puzzle
2. Anything else

Apparently, someone wants his table back and three pieces a day is not considered sufficient progress.  I have been given a deadline of ten days to complete the hardest puzzle ever.  (Thanks for that Lisa.)

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A few weeks back we took a day trip to Embu das Artes to celebrate some birthdays.  Technically, it was only Suzanna’s birthday… but she kindly shared the day with me (since mine was on hold until we could make friends to celebrate with.)

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Embu is located 40 minutes outside of São Paulo. The town was founded by Jesuit priests in the 17th century and still maintains buildings from the colonial period.

It is a charming city with cobblestone streets, handicraft shops, and plenty of spots to drink the day away.  We opted for German fare which represented inhabitants that settled in the area generations ago.

On weekends and holidays, there is a handicraft fair which has been occurring for more than 70 years and attracts people from all over the country.

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AND there were puppies… which makes this my new favorite weekend jaunt.

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I have a new found love for all things guinea fowl.

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Taste testing artisanal cachaças.

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The floating head might be advertising hair braids.  I’m not sold.

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My husband ‘humoring me’ after I asked him to muddle for the picture.  There’s a first for everything. 

Also, I have officially become my mother with the use of that phrase.

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Have you met… THE CUTEST PUPPY EVER?!?

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Sampling toasted nuts and candied coconut. 

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Sampa is what the locals affectionately call São Paulo.

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As with any good celebration, we rounded it out with Farkle and an exorbitant number of shots.  I won the contest for most farkles.

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Here’s to thirty good years, and seventy more to come.  Happy birthday Suzanna!

Super Sampler Platter

In an effort to dodge the imminent censorship requests, I am posting the remainder of my photos from the Wittig’s visit. 

No.  I did not do a great job narrowing them down.  Get cozy.  I’m sure you have nothing better to do considering the high in Minneapolis today was two degrees and I was busy wearing flip flops in Brazil.

Sorry.  That was mean. 

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Catedral da Sé, New Year’s Day mass

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Wasn’t. kidding. 

São Paulo was EMP-TY… ‘I am Legend’ style. 

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Since our favorite ramen joint in Liberdade was closed for the holidays, we submitted to hunger pains and settled for whatever was across the street.  Worst Chinese food EVER.

Four words:  gravy covered chicken bones.  Never again.  SO sorry guys.

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Parque Trianon lit up for Christmas

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And… this here is how Lisa got invited back to Brazil.

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Playing euchre with tasty coffee drinks at Santo Grão on Oscar Freire.

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Please note my opening statement regarding incoming censorship requests.

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Thank goodness Jonathan was there.

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Hotel Unique, designed by Ruy Ohtake

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Rooftop Skye Bar prior to the dinner rush… perfect timing for a sunset.

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Immediate thought process:

This should be Jonathan’s facebook profile pic!!

Oh my goodness.  I am such a jobless 14 year old.

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Vila Mada.

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Hairy lady armpits and Pee Wee Herman in perma-squat under display glass.

Well, that’s not weird. 

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From our first day exploring the market to our last few hours sampling juices, having you both here was a blast.  You are welcome back anytime.  Like, now.

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Facebook profile picture!!!

Big Wet One

This week I began a course at PUC-SP, a Catholic University here in São Paulo.  After an unexplained one month hiatus from Portuguese study sessions, I am now speaking the language daily (aloud) in front of my peers.

On a brighter note, I haven’t been bumped down to the basic level class yet.  Thank goodness for rainy season and homemade lasagna… it’s study time.

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Between weather reports riddled with rain and the mass departure of Paulistanos over the holidays, there was not much sight-seeing to do during the Wittig’s visit.

So we buckled down and did what any good Wolff would do.  We played cards.  The entire visit.  It was amazing minus the fact that I NEVER won (not bitter at all).  In the end, we laughed a lot and loaded up on some much needed family time.  There were even a few moments where we didn’t feel quite so far from home.

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Evidence of rain.  New Year’s Eve 2011-2012.

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Brazilian New Year’s Traditions:

  • Gather at the beach, jump seven waves, and throw flowers to wish for a happy and prosperous year
  • Private parties at clubs, bars, and homes
  • Fireworks displays at midnight
  • Concerts with top Brazilian musicians
  • Wear all white to bring and sustain good luck
  • Wear underwear whose color states your intentions for the coming year

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After dinner in Vila Mada, we made our way to Paulista under the assumption that any remaining citizens were likely congregating there.  What we found was a big, wet mess.  We brought in the Ano Novo with thousands of Brazilians on Avenida Paulista listening to live concerts, drinking chopp, and getting doused with rain water.

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This picture WILL be framed.  And not simply because my husband is holding a flowered umbrella it is a lovely shot.  But because the man originally attempting the picture tried 42 times with no success before we handed it off to another bystander.

The fact that my family is still smiling after three full minutes of pure frustration can only be attributed to their awareness of my persistence regarding quality group photos.

Beco do Batman

Beco do Batman (Batman’s Alley) is located in the Vila Madalena district of São Paulo. Most homes in this neighborhood are walled at the sidewalks creating private courtyards for its residents. The windy streets that branch off Rua Gonçalo Afonso have evolved into an open-air gallery.

The “batman” reference stems from the comic book series. Exploring this collection of street art by foot is reminiscent of stumbling into your very own comic strip.

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This poor man’s museum attracts graffiti artists and stencilers from across the globe.  The layers of art are constantly turning over, encouraging multiple visits to see newly surfaced works.

In 2007, SP mayor Kassab banned all means of public advertising, stirring an unintended graffiti movement to fill the then blank spaces.  While most designs are appreciated by both locals & foreigners, the ever frustrating pichação (a calligraphy style tagging) is not.

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Although there are plenty of opportunities to see urban galleries of graffiti here in São Paulo, this 500 foot curved alley is now among my favorites. I’ve included a photo tour from our visit with Lis & Jonathan.

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Could he look any less excited?  Such a stick in the mud trooper!  AND… yes, you are correct in assuming that my husband still does not read the blog.

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I’m pretty sure that guy on the left is from my worst nightmares.

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And this ladies, is exactly why you don’t go for six months without a color & a cut.  Not. pretty.

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My preference instead was to be photographing these Chicago lovebirds.

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Two of my most favorite people.  I miss your faces.  Come back already.

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Recovery Mode

Hello strangers.  It’s been a while since I have written so I decided to list a few updates.

  • Christmas was eerily quiet.  What we missed with family & friends, we replaced with an excessive amount of food.  We cooked the entire day to distract ourselves from the impending loneliness.
  • For those of you who sent us holiday cards… THANK YOU.  It is so great to have familiar faces covering our fridge.
  • I cut my husband’s hair. A lot of it. It was our most successful trim to date. He only swore at me once when I stabbed him in the ear.  Never mind that I spent three days following him around with scissors fixing it.
  • Lisa & Jonathan arrived safely and spent a few days visiting with us in São Paulo.  The remainder of their honeymoon includes exploring waterfalls in Argentina & roaming various Brazilian beaches.  I offered multiple times to be their third wheel, but they politely declined did not respond.
  • During their visit we played a boatload of cards.  I DID NOT WIN.  Not even once.
  • The husband was on holiday between Christmas & New Years, but took this week off as well for good measure.  He finally rejoined the ranks today after a much needed break.
  • I registered for a Portuguese Language & Culture course at a local university. We have decided it necessary that at least one of us have the ability to communicate.
  • We began watching an old HBO series called ‘The Wire’.  My husband now refers to me as ‘playa’ and ends every sentence with ‘yo’.  No comment.
  • One of us has taken to sleeping with four pillows and now refers to it as ‘pillow heaven’.  I’ll let you guess who.

I just unloaded my pictures from Lisa & Jonathan’s visit… thought I would share one for kicks.  Enjoy.

Surprise Marie

Notice the resemblance?

Banff Gopher

Happy Merry Golden

Today marks the start of my little sister’s 29th year.  In proper celebratory style, she is sleeping in cramped quarters on an international flight.  i.e. Flying to Brazil.  While I’ve heard mumblings about a honeymoon, it is important that you know she is here to see me.

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I had an absurdly long post planned about what a rock star lady she is… but then I began browsing family photographs and somehow lost three hours of my life.  In return, I’m well past my bedtime and feeling hugely sentimental.  So… I’ll leave you with my sappy photo trail.  Prepare yourself, I ADORE my family.

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My mom says when we were little girls, we were attached at the hip.  Between the two of us, we only needed our bag of Barbies or a pile of couch cushions & old sheets to be entertained for hours on end.

the girls

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Did I mention we are Irish?

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Super Sibling Vacation
Mexico 2006
Most. Favorite. Trip. Ever.

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Hiking with Dad in Palm Springs.

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Mom’s Surprise Birthday Celebration

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FINALLY.  Someone who shares my affection for the Minnesota State Fair.

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In honor of Lisa’s birthday, I think you should all give her a prolonged hug the next time you see her… lasting no less than 90 seconds.  If you know Lis, you know this won’t make her awkward at all.  It will be amazing.  Promise.

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Sky Diving, Chicago-style

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May you always be blessed; with walls for the wind, a roof for the rain, a warm cup of tea by the fire, laughter to cheer you, those you love near you and all that your heart might desire.

May your thoughts be as glad as the shamrocks. May your heart be as light as a song. May each day bring you bright happy hours, That stay with you all year long.

For each petal on the shamrock this brings a wish your way— Good health, good luck, and happiness for today and every day.

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Happy Birthday Marie. 
Beijos e Abraços.
December 29, 2011

Not a Good Start

Made coffee yesterday.  Accidentally poured too much water.  Stood.  Stared.  Contemplated removing water from the coffee maker.  Seemed messy… so I compensated with more grounds.

My personal issues with waste forced me to drink it all. Instead of being hyper-productive, the surplus of caffeine made me feel queasy & confused for the majority of the day.

LOTS o’ laundry. The lack of a drying mechanism left me spending an extended period of time during laundry day watching Brazilian soap operas and pondering the season finale Dexter.

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Calmed my sister. She received a box that she “could fit inside of” from Target. Her impending vacation to Brazil has officially made her my mule.

LOVE you Lis.  Can’t wait for my curtains you guys to arrive!

Learned that Betsy prefers to chew laundry rather than fold it.

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Watched cartoons to learn Portuguese while ironing in 85 degree heat.

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Not. kidding.

Something about a bear dealing with a sugar hangover and a coffee addicted deer. My Portuguese might actually be worse now.

Used the ever so fabulous Google Translate to negotiate the purchase of our new car. Either that, or I have a date with a complete stranger on Thursday night.

Taught a lesson on Paulista. The holiday crowds were a tad worse this week. 

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Told my husband work stories.  To which he made me promise that I would get a new job upon returning home.  As drab as his accounting stories can be, my tale of a vet record being saved in the wrong folder was apparently not all that riveting.

TODAY… well, today was going to be different.  No influx of caffeine in sight.  The sun was shining and things were looking up… until I walked outside and the dog peed on my foot.  *sigh

Ignorance is Bliss

A: Wow.  Must be Christmas, eh?  Did you carry this all the way home?

H: Don’t touch me.  I’m sweaty.

A: Mkay.  What a thoughtful holiday gift from your company.  This would be great for entertaining our family and friends…

H: {silence}

A: Well, it’s something, right?  I don’t remember the Minneapolis office giving you anything last year.

H: Last year I had the option of an iPad or $1200.

A: {silence}

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Our very heavy dandy holiday package included the following:

  • Figos em calda  (golden figs)
  • Tomate Seco  (dried tomatoes)
  • Azeitonas Verdes Recheadas Com Pimentao  (green olives)
  • Aspargos Verdes  (asparagus in a jar)
  • Mix Nuts (mixed nuts) 
  • Axeite de Oliva, Extra Virgem  (extra virgin olive oil)
  • Atum (canned tuna)
  • Queijo Tipo Reino (unknown cheese)
  • Bolo Suico de Natal (Christmas cake, 1st ingredient: sugar)
  • Salame Tipo Italiano (Italian salami)
  • Nozes sem Casca  (walnuts)
  • Pessego em Calda (canned peaches)
  • Damasco Turco  (Turkish Damascus?)
  • Ameixa Seca  (dried prunes)
  • Uva Passa  (raisins)
  • Buscuits Au Beurre  (butter cookies)
  • Panettone Original (Italian sweet bread loaf)
  • Chocottone Gotas de Chocolate (Italian chocolate chip bread)
  • Vinho Tinto (red wine)
  • Perdigao Peru inteiro (whole turkey w/ heart)
  • traveling cooler shoulder bag for the turkey

If you asked me to repeat this list, I would probably say:

“Canned tuna, red wine, turkey cooler.”

I cannot comprehend why Perdigao would advertise that the heart is STILL inside of the turkey.  It’s like the time I realized the shrimp we purchased from Sam’s Club had legs.  Or when I ate fishcake thinking it was candy.

The frozen turkey is dead to me.  I sure hope the husband is hungry.

Lost in a Favela

Favela:  A term generally used for shanty towns or slums in Brazil. 

Around the time we decided to move last winter, Brazil was in the news for flash floods. The rainy season downpours paired with poorly built structures caused entire favelas to collapse, sending the inhabitants and their homes down the steep hillsides.

More recently, we have read about the pacification of the Rio favelas in anticipation of the upcoming Olympic games & World Cup. 

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My experience began here. A group of boisterous school children walking home ducked into this narrow alley.  Because this was not my intended destination, I would have likely continued on my way had it not been for them.

My thought process:  Alleys are interesting.  These walls remind me of an Indiana Jones movie.  I like exploring new places.  Children are fun.  Maybe we can play soccer.

(Never mind the fact that I was following and taking pictures of random children.)

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The people I met here were beyond delightful.  My Portuguese received some intense practice as I wandered through winding alleys and climbed endless stairs visiting with neighbors.  (In truth, a few people initiated conversation by asking if I was lost.)

After chatting, I asked permission to photograph them.  All agreed.

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This boy mentioned something about meeting ‘the man’ at the top of the hill… that he would allow me a tour once I paid ‘the fee’.  I then practiced saying, “Where is the exit?”

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The favelas are known to have some of the best views in Rio.  As the neighborhoods were developed, the wealthy opted for nearness to the ocean.  Those low-lying properties were the first locations to receive utilities like electricity and running water.

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Is it just me, or are vampires everywhere these days?

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A friend recently shared that taking pictures in the favelas can be quite dangerous since they are known locations of drug trafficking.  Snapping a photo at the wrong time or place can compromise your safety.

In hindsight, I probably shouldn’t have meandered through here with a DSLR camera slung over my shoulder.

But would I follow those kiddos again?  In a heartbeat.  Hands down, one of my favorite experiences in Rio. 

Below are links to articles regarding the favela situation in Rio: 

BBC’s news in pictures of Rio de Janeiro’s Rocinha Favela being seized by Brazilian police.

An article from TIME about the pacification of favelas in Rio and the local companies taking advantage of growth in these areas. It specifically cites the Chapéu Mangueira Favela that I photographed.